Your complete guide to understanding heat pumps
A heat pump is a highly efficient device that transfers heat from one place to another. Instead of generating heat directly (like a gas boiler), it moves existing heat from outside air or ground into your home.
Extracts heat from outside air. Most common type, easier to install. Works even when outdoor temperature is below zero.
Extracts heat from the ground via buried pipes (brine circuit). More efficient but requires more installation work.
A heat pump works like a refrigerator in reverse. Here's the simplified process:
The refrigeration cycle consists of four main components:
Your heat pump can operate in different modes depending on current heating or cooling needs:
Heat is extracted from outside and transferred into your home. Used during cold months.
Cycle reverses - heat is removed from inside and released outside. Used during warm months.
Heat pump heats domestic hot water in the storage tank. Can work alongside space heating.
Target temperature reached. Compressor is off, system monitors temperatures.
If your heat pump frequently switches between modes or turns on/off every few minutes, this is called "short cycling". It can seriously damage the compressor over time.
Healthy operation: Long, continuous cycles (30+ minutes) with gradual frequency changes. Avoid frequent compressor stops.
Many installations have two separate heating zones that can be controlled independently:
Understanding temperature readings is key to monitoring your heat pump's performance. Here's what each measurement means:
Water temperature leaving the heat pump and going into the heating system. This is the "output" of your heat pump.
Typical values:
Water temperature returning to the heat pump after circulating through your heating system. Should be lower than flow temperature.
What to look for: Should be 3-7°C lower than flow temperature.
The difference between flow and return temperatures. Shows how much heat is being transferred to your home.
Ideal values:
Outside air temperature measured by the outdoor unit. Used for weather-compensated heating curves.
Current temperature of domestic hot water in the storage tank.
Typical settings:
Internal temperature where refrigerant releases heat to the water system. Higher values usually indicate the system is working harder.
For ground source heat pumps - temperature of fluid in the ground loop entering and leaving the heat pump.
The compressor is the heart of your heat pump - and also its most expensive component. Understanding how it works helps you optimize settings and extend its lifespan.
Modern heat pumps use inverter compressors that run at variable speeds. The frequency (Hz) indicates how hard the compressor is working:
Efficient operation, maintaining temperature
Normal operation, actively heating
Maximum output, cold weather or recovery
Short cycling occurs when the compressor starts and stops frequently (multiple times per hour). This is extremely harmful because:
Solutions: Add or enlarge buffer tank, lower target temperatures, adjust heating curve, ensure system is properly sized.
The flow rate (liters/minute) shows how much water circulates through the system. This is crucial for heat transfer:
Heat pump may overheat and shut down. Poor heat distribution throughout the house.
Delta T becomes too small. Wasted pump energy without efficiency benefit.
May indicate clogged filter, air in system, or water pump degradation.
COP (Coefficient of Performance) measures how efficient your heat pump is. It's the ratio of heat output to electrical input.
Example: COP of 4 means for every 1 kWh of electricity, you get 4 kWh of heat
The app shows estimated input power (electricity) and output power (heat). Monitoring these helps you understand real-world efficiency:
In cold, humid conditions, frost builds up on the outdoor unit's heat exchanger. The heat pump periodically runs defrost cycles to remove this ice.
During defrost, the heat pump temporarily reverses - it takes heat from inside your home to melt ice on the outdoor unit. You may notice a brief drop in heating during this time. This is normal.
Heat pumps include electric backup heaters for situations when the compressor alone cannot meet demand:
Electric backup heaters have COP of 1 - they produce only 1 kWh of heat per 1 kWh of electricity. This is 3-5x less efficient than the heat pump compressor.
Monitor for: If booster heaters run frequently during normal weather, your system may be undersized or settings need adjustment.
Periodically heats the hot water tank to 60°C+ to kill Legionella bacteria. This often requires booster heaters since heat pumps are most efficient at lower temperatures.
Below is a complete list of parameters available in the app. Note that not all parameters apply to every heat pump.
| Parameter | Description |
|---|---|
Compressor Status |
Shows whether the compressor is currently running or idle |
Compressor Frequency |
Speed of the compressor in Hz, higher values mean more heating or cooling power |
Defrost Mode |
Indicates when the outdoor unit is melting ice buildup |
Power |
Whether the heat pump is turned on or off |
Booster Heater 1 Status |
Shows if the first backup electric heater is active |
Booster Heater 2 Status |
Shows if the second backup electric heater is active |
Booster Heater 3 Status |
Shows if the third backup electric heater is active |
Immersion Heater Status |
Shows if the electric heater inside the hot water tank is active |
Operation Mode |
Current mode: heating, cooling, or hot water production. May also show other modes like antifreeze or legionella. |
Operation Mode #1 |
Operating mode for heating zone #1. In most heat pumps this is either constant flow or compensation curve mode, but some models may support advanced modes like auto-adaptation. |
Operation Mode #2 |
Operating mode for heating zone #2. In most heat pumps this is either constant flow or compensation curve mode, but some models may support advanced modes like auto-adaptation. |
Has Error |
Indicates if the system has an active error |
Error Code |
Diagnostic code shown when there is a problem |
Zone 1 Active |
Whether heating/cooling zone #1 is currently active |
Zone 2 Active |
Whether heating/cooling zone #2 is currently active |
Flow Rate |
Amount of water flowing through the system in litres per minute |
Fan 1 RPM |
Speed of the first outdoor unit fan |
Fan 2 RPM |
Speed of the second outdoor unit fan |
Lev A |
Electronic expansion valve opening position |
Input Power |
Estimated electrical power being consumed |
Output Power |
Estimated heat energy being produced |
COP |
Efficiency ratio - heat output divided by electricity input |
Water Pump 1 Status |
Shows if the water circulation pump is running |
3-Way Valve Status |
Position of valve directing water to heating or hot water tank |
Max Tank Water Temperature |
Maximum allowed hot water tank temperature setting |
Force Hot Water |
Forces immediate hot water heating regardless of schedule |
Prohibit Heating Zone #1 |
When enabled, prevents heating in zone #1 |
Prohibit Heating Zone #2 |
When enabled, prevents heating in zone #2 |
Prohibit Heating Hot Water |
When enabled, prevents hot water heating |
Prohibit Cooling Zone #1 |
When enabled, prevents cooling in zone #1 |
Prohibit Cooling Zone #2 |
When enabled, prevents cooling in zone #2 |
Holiday mode |
Reduced operation mode to save energy during vacations |
Eco Hot Water |
Energy-saving mode that heats water more slowly using lower flow temperatures for better efficiency |
MEL Pump App Control Mode |
Whether the system is controlled via the server, supported only by Mitsubishi heat pumps |
Service Code |
Diagnostic code used by service technicians to get heat pump parameter details |
Indoor Temp #1 |
Current air temperature in rooms served by heating zone #1 |
Indoor Temp #2 |
Current air temperature in rooms served by heating zone #2 |
Outdoor Temp |
Current outside air temperature measured near the heat pump |
Flow Temp |
Water temperature leaving the heat pump and going into the heating system |
Return Temp |
Water temperature returning to the heat pump from the heating system |
Flow Temp #1 |
Water temperature supplied to heating zone #1 |
Return Temp #1 |
Water temperature returning from heating zone #1 |
Flow Temp #2 |
Water temperature supplied to heating zone #2 |
Return Temp #2 |
Water temperature returning from heating zone #2 |
Thermostat Temp #1 |
Desired room temperature set for heating zone #1 |
Target Temp #1 |
Target water temperature for the heating circuit in zone #1 |
Thermostat Temp #2 |
Desired room temperature set for heating zone #2 |
Target Temp #2 |
Target water temperature for the heating circuit in zone #2 |
Delta Temp |
Difference between the water leaving and returning to the heat pump, used to show how much heat is being transferred |
Tank Water Temp |
Current temperature of the domestic hot water stored in the tank |
Condensing Temp |
Internal heat pump temperature where refrigerant releases heat to the water system, higher values usually mean lower efficiency |
Target Tank Water Temp |
Desired domestic hot water tank temperature |
Flow Temp Boiler |
Water temperature leaving the backup boiler |
Return Temp Boiler |
Water temperature returning to the backup boiler |
Mixing Tank Water Temp |
Water temperature inside the buffer or mixing tank |
Brine Inlet Temp |
Temperature of the ground loop fluid entering the heat pump |
Brine Outlet Temp |
Temperature of the ground loop fluid leaving the heat pump |
Liquid Line Temp |
Temperature of the liquid refrigerant flowing through the heat pump's cooling circuit |
Here are some common issues and what to check:
Start tracking all these parameters and optimize your heat pump's performance. Join thousands of users who are saving energy and extending their heat pump's lifespan.
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